The Legacy of the Gay Catwalk
Cities around the world have their “gay catwalks,” lively streets lined with queer bars, cafés, and shops. New York has Christopher Street, San Francisco boasts the Castro, and Chicago shines with North Halsted. Europe, however, is more scattered. London’s Old Compton Street blends into Soho, while Madrid’s Plaza de Chueca and Amsterdam’s Reguliersdwarsstraat hold their own queer energy.
Berlin’s answer is Motzstraße, in the heart of Schöneberg. This stretch between Nollendorfplatz and Martin-Luther-Straße has long been a hub for gay culture, cruising, and nightlife. At its heart stands Hafen, the doyen of Berlin’s gay bars.
Hafen: A Safe Harbor Since 1990
Opened in November 1990, Hafen set itself apart from the start. Unlike many gay bars of the era, it had open windows and no buzzer entry. It became a welcoming living room for Berlin’s LGBTQ+ community.
But Hafen’s roots run deeper. The location itself carries queer history. In the 1930s, the space was a restaurant that welcomed Marlene Dietrich, who performed just across the street at the legendary Eldorado. Around the corner, writer Christopher Isherwood created the character Sally Bowles, later immortalized in Cabaret.
A Creative Playground for Artists and Icons
Hafen was founded by a group of artists, actors, and creatives, giving it instant cultural pull. Berlin artist Marc Brandenburg worked behind the bar, and stars such as Marc Almond, Andy Bell, Martin Gore, Ian McKellen, Nan Goldin, and Isa Genzken have all passed through its doors.
Its quirky interior, covered from floor to ceiling in art and memorabilia, only adds to the charm. With hidden nooks and a buzzing atmosphere, Hafen feels both intimate and electric.
Parties, Pride, and Community Spirit
Hafen’s calendar is packed with events that bring the community together. Annual highlights include:
- Berlinale parties every February during the Berlin International Film Festival
- Koninginnedag celebrations on April 30
- Eurovision viewing nights every May
- Pride season parties throughout the summer
- Monthly themed nights and even the occasional big football screening
Each event blends queer culture with Berlin’s signature energy, making Hafen a gathering place for generations.
Neighbors, Rivals, and the Catwalk Vibe
Today, Hafen draws a younger crowd while staying true to its roots. Its neighbor, Boyberry, replaced the iconic Tom’s Bar in 2024 and attracts a different, younger audience. Together, the venues spill crowds onto the pavement, creating a buzzing street scene that feels like one big queer block party.
Other Motzstraße staples include Scheune (opened in 1995), the cocktail haven Heile Welt (2001), and older institutions like Tabasco (1968), Pussycat (1974), and Pinocchio (1984), each reflecting a different era of Berlin’s gay nightlife.
Hafen’s Lasting Anchor
Despite Berlin’s ever-changing queer landscape, Hafen remains a true anchor in Schöneberg. There’s no actual harbor nearby, but for more than three decades, Hafen has been exactly that: a safe, stylish, and spirited harbor for LGBTQ+ Berlin.
